Constance Eakins’ monograph about Trieste, The Coast
where Barbarism Starts, was a middling volume, of interest
only to Eakins completists and Triestini interested in an American’s
take on their history. Most memorable is the chapter on the
city’s lonely past, titled “The Nine Disappointments
of Trieste.”
Unlike Venice or Constantinople or Alexandria, Trieste never had
the benefit of a violent assault that brought about a full-scale
decline. Instead it suffered only a slow lapse into insignificance
and cosmopolitan urban torpor. In this chapter Eakins charts the
history of the city through a series of disappointing events. These
include:
—The disappointment of the Illyrians,
a humble Indo-Celtic people who traded with fish, salt, olive
oil and wine, when they were invaded by the Romans, and their
city renamed Tergeste.
—The disappointment of the Romans in 394 AD when, due to a powerful gust
of the Bora wind, they lost a battle—later christened “The Battle
of the Bora.” Local historians believe that this battle
directly precipitated the fall of the Roman Empire.
—The disappointment felt by the helpless
Triestine fisherman when the Venetians repeatedly raided and
occupied it at will during the middle ages, until they grew
bored and abandoned it again.
—The disappointment of the14th century
townspeople when their local rulers entrusted the city to the
despotic rule of the Habsburg monarchy in Vienna.
—The disappointment of the Archduke Ferdinand
Maximilian of Hapsburg who, having built the beautiful castle
Miramare, was shot against a wall in Mexico in 1867 before
he could take residence there. Before he died Maximilian wrote
a letter from Mexico in which he demanded that two thousand
nightingales be set free from their cages in Miramare, and
sent across the sea to him. After his death his wife, Carlotta,
left alone in the empty castle, slowly went insane.
—The disappointment over the assassination of the Archduke Ferdinand
and his wife, Sophie, in 1914. His funeral procession proceeded down the city’s
main street, the Corso Italia, marking the humiliation of the
empire and the advent of world war.
—The disappointment of 1919 at the dissolution
of the Habsburg Empire. Trieste was orphaned, smelted on to
the recently united kingdom of Italy, becoming its easternmost
fringe. Having no identifiable role in the new kingdom, the
city was left to fade and evanesce into a languid state of
disregard.
—Mussolini’s disappointment, realized as the noose was tightening
around his neck, that he would not deliver on his promise to regain for Trieste
its ancient status as one of the world’s great ports.
To get a further flavor of Eakins’ book, we quote here
from his ninth “disappointment”:
“Imagine the disappointment of Antonio Smrekar, a mechanic
from Trieste, upon presenting his identification papers to the
civic clerk in Udine and being ordered to an internment camp
under suspicion of being a spy. Antonio, an Italian irredentist
of Slavic ancestry, had paid a train engineer two months’ salary
to be smuggled out of Trieste and over the border into Italy.
He wanted to fight alongside the allies against Austria, whose
kingdom he blamed for Trieste’s pitiable decline. In the
internment bunker he met other nationless casualties of war,
a band of disheartened and forgotten men from Trieste and the
border towns. These men were not known criminals nor were they
even accused of any specific crimes, but they were nevertheless
considered dangerous personalities in a time of war. Some were
suspected of sympathizing with the enemy, others of sowing anarchy.
The Italian military had orders to intern anyone seen holding “incautious
conversations in public,” “behaving suspiciously,” “practicing
imprudent comportment,” and “not respecting normal
war-time of the war.” As a result, it was a large, motley
bunch of professors, engineers, daffy pensioners, and leaders
of youth organizations that lived in the bunker’s cramped
quarters, sleeping on splintered wooden cots without the pleasure
of a mattress and lining up to play chess and pinochle on the
room’s single table. During the daily period of “recess” the
men were allowed into the dirt yard to play bocce, roll dice,
and pass around a soccer ball. Behind the towering fence lay
hundreds of miles of Friulian farmland, interrupted only by
pockets of forest and small hills on which there sat white
castles and forts built for other wars, about whose participants
nothing was known except that they died over a thousand years
earlier.
“Imagine Antonio’s further disappointment
at not receiving any responses from the Udinese Civil Commissary
to his dignified pleas for release. This is from a letter he
wrote in 1919, during his fourth year of internment:
‘I marvel not only at the length of my
internment, but at your refusal to consider my case all this
time.
‘I am tired of waiting, and so I implore you for
neither clemency nor pity, but justice, if such a virtue still
exists. I ask for freedom so that I might rejoin my family
(who have been praying for my return since 1915), and come
to their aid. Recently, in an effort to get away from the destruction
of their city, they spent a Saturday at the park in Castle
Miramare. While they were there, an airplane—they are
not certain whether it was Italian or Austrian—dropped
two bombs in their immediate vicinity. A shard of tree branch
pierced the arm of my young son, Pietro. It would be a blessing
were I allowed to visit and comfort him. He suffers silently
there, alongside the beds of wounded soldiers swearing and
carrying on in a way unsuitable for the observation of a boy
only eight years old.
‘I hope that the Civil Commissariat understands my
intentions and will not wish to deny me the justice that I
request.’”
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